Thursday, September 30, 2010

Arrivederci Venice

It's blue skies as we part ways with laurrie & jim, affectionately known as the Sostmani's. They are off to Zurich while we head to Summago.

Both Sick Sostmani's are recovering but oh so ready for home & bed. Laurrie's still trying to imagine how I could ever think of living here. Not that it will ever happen but I've always felt drawn to Venice.

Yesterday they explored St Mark's square, visited the Rialto Bridge area & then took in the modern art at the Peggy Guggenheim museum. We met up with them about 5:00 and ambled through the Ghetto area, near our Dump.

I should pause briefly and explain ambling - I consider it an interesting slow walk with no particular destination in mind. Philip considers "ambling" a cross country hike into the wilderness without a map, food or water. Still somehow we've "ambled" thru many countries & foreign cities together - always ready to see the next one.

We ate at a restaurant near a canal where the vaparetto's, taxi's, deliveries past by continuously; people strolled by with children, travelers arriving & departing crossing the bridge, church bells ringing at odd times - a typical Veneto scene.

And in our typical fashion - not necessarily american, perhaps Sosfre fashion - we asked for separate checks, then proceeded to order almost identical meals & splitting a bottle of white wine among the 3 of us but not with the 4th, who was drinking red wine. In the end, we told our puzzled waiter to give us one bill.

It's been fun, lots of laughs, creating memories together. Laurrie & Jim got a glimpse of what I've explored for 20+ years - philip for 10 and why we keep coming back...the wonderful public transportation, the ever changing scenery, and most of all the people - who take pride in their country & want visitors to have a good time.

Ciao!
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Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Venice Sparkles






It is a beautiful day; the sun is sparkling. Philip has the day planned – more walking, but at a leisurely pace and no getting lost. We'll go get our train tickets to Portuguaro & let Mikki know which train to meet. Then we're heading to Murano for some shopping, coffees and good food. Returning, we'll stop to get train reservations from Portuguaro to Zurich; return to the room, rest and then decide what to do with the rest of the late afternoon/evening. Sounds like a plan to me.
Meeting Laurrie & jim for breakfast, such as it is, they're heading to St Marks.
Murano is lovely & uncrowded, pefect. We make a couple of stops for coffee & spritzs before settling on lunch at a place where I remembered locals frequented. I had cod and polenta – which may not sound so good – but it was.
I'm looking forward to the time when Laurrie and Jim have full access to this blog as they are the writers & wordsmiths of this group. Not me. After all the months of planning our journey is at an end. Tomorrow, they head back to Zurich & home. We go to Summago/Portuguaro to visit my cousin for a few days before returning to Zurich and home.

Venice, Here We Are















After having our coffee & roll; Jim's still Down For the Count; Phil, Laurrie and I head to St Marks. We have a few lingering clouds from yesterday's storm but the day looks like it will be lovely. The predictable crowds of tourist are soon encountered but hey, we're part of that group. After a quick look around we head into the Doge's Palace - my 5th visit and still I find it interesting. It's remarkable a city could develop the government Venice did without a charter to follow.
Wherever we walk we notice platforms staging piled in the middle of walks and squares. Philip said it's for Aqua Alta – high water. And we could understand as the standing water at St Mark's increased significantly from the time we arrived and left the Doge's Palace. High tide would be at 2:00PM and it was obvious, we'd need to walk on the platforms to avoid getting wet.
Our next stop was the campanile – magnificent views of Venice and the out islands. Strangely enough, not one of the hundreds of canals were visible. They're hidden between the canyons of buildings.
My friend, Georgene from Phoenix, is also visiting Venice. Laurrie and I meet her at 2:00 to take a taxi to Murano and a tour of the glass factory. Philip headed back to the train station to meet Mikki, Morgan and Kilian.
Riding in the Taxi was fun but the tour – not so much. Not much history and most everything overpriced. Laurrie headed back to the mainland to check on Jim while George and I settled down with a nice glass of red wine and waited for Philip and Mikki. Once everyone was gathered we strolled along the canal, gawking at the glass shops before stopping to have a pizza before heading back to the rail station to bid farewell to Mikki and family (Phil & I will see them again in a few days).
Near our hotel, we stop for a glass of wine and run into Laurrie and Jim – who's looking better and is at least up right. I have to say the Sostman's are terrific people to travel with – no matter how bad they felt & nothing worse than being sick when on vacation & a foreign country definitely complicates life – they soldier on; no complaints.
After giving Georgene a quick peek in the Ghetto area (home to large % of the remaining Venetians) we headed for the Rialto and some supper. Then we began the adventure of getting George back to our hotel and us back to the Valporetti, without getting lost. We got Georgene back to the hotel but not without getting lost – both going and coming back. Barely speaking, we staggered back to our dismal little hotel about 10:30, vowing not to leave again – ever!!!

Meandering Thoughts












Italian Style



There does appear to be an art of dressing Italian. During our 4 days in Firenze; I've paid close attention to the women around me. I keep trying to distinguish our differences. I have noticed lots of black and form-fitting styles…and heels. I don't think the women here could survive without their stilettos and I can't figure out how they walk across the cobblestones wearing them. Laurrie's in some sort of chic loafers and I'm wearing my Privo's & Born's – but stilettos, they're not! I see lots of scarves tied in all sorts of imaginative ways but after walking miles, I'm hot and sweaty and the scarf is usually weighing me down and I'm looking bedraggled. Italian women don't seem to look bedraggled. So , I have to say I'm baffled.

Granted if blending in with the locals instead of sticking out as a tourist is the goal, perhaps the map and guide book in hand; along with my camera is giving away my true identity.

Italian Drivers
The words "Italian Driving" conjures up images of chaotic narrow streets where caffeine-fueled locals negotiate the smallest of spaces at high speeds, flanked by armies of zig-zagging mopeds, and all serenaded by the hectic sounds of horns and cursing.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Hello Venice, Where’s the Hospital?

Our train arrived on time, we joined the crowds outside the station – just as it started raining. And not your basic gentle rain. Noooo, we're greeted with resounding claps of thunder & great flashes of lightening. Just what you want to see as you walk along a city full of canals of water!
Hotel Rossi – best description is a Dump. But a clean one – at least we have lights, private toilet and only a short walk from the train station. Plus an incredible collection of doors & keys between us and our rooms. Breakfast is coffee and a hard roll, served by a surly lady (she did smile today!) Hey it's a one *; you get what you pay for.
Jim's cold is worsening and he's going down for the count…sleep. Laurrie's eye infection isn't better and the druggist said she needed to see a doctor. He indicated all she had to do was cross the bridge and turn to the left. After an adamant "don't even think you're going to a hospital by yourself!", we set off. We learned that "turn to the left" meant – turn to the left; get on the vaporetti; make 6 or 7 stops; get off at Ospedale stop; wander thru a maze with signs that say First Aide and finally find the Emergency Room.
Once we finally arrive, I have to admit; the system seems efficient – after Laurrie gave her name, rank, passport number & zip code; we were on our way to the eye clinic – where not one but 2 doctors examine her – about 20 minutes later, prescriptions in hand, we were on our way back to the hotel. The staff at the hospital were friendly and helpful –we got lost more than once and each time someone willingly helped us.
By the time we get settled; it's about 7:00PM. Philip and I cross the bridge to the Ghetto area and find a wonderful deli where we bought fresh Mortedella, cheese, candies, chips & procescco – which we carried back to the room and had a picnic.


Monday, September 27, 2010

Leaving Firenze















Goodbye to clickity clack luggage rolling by the windows, mopeds skidding around the corners & car drivers who only nominally stop for a pedestrian.
Hotel Varasi was close to the train station & not horrendously expensive. It was clean, the staff cheerful. I have no complaints. What was amusing was our first night – a sweltering 1st evening. We opened the window and a 1,000 angry Firenze mosquitoes flew into our room. We spent the night swatting & sleeping with the sheet over our head. It was only the 2nd day – when Philip noticed the halls were air conditioned that I decided to closely examine the heater in our room. Aha, it too was an air conditioner! We immediately shared the information with Laurrie & Jim; ending the Battling Mosquitos.
So much to do and see – 4 days isn't enough & it's not worth becoming exhausted trying to See It All. Pick a few things that interest you and then enjoy the sights, smells and food. The food is good and reasonable and the wine is excellent. Like any other place, you get what you pay for. Philip declared that Laurrie is ready for the Chianti Wine Tasting Hall of Fame.
Dr. Manatowa began dispensing drugs - Sudafed & Musinex to Jim; Musinex to Phil. Unfortunately, I have nothing for Laurrie; who's got Pink Eye and not having much luck finding relief.
The train station was mobbed when we arrived and typically Italian, Let's Not Give The Passengers A Clue Which Track To Run To; Until The Very Last Minute. Then Philip and I forgot to tell Laurrie & Jim to ignore the numbers printed on the car – look at the doors instead; so the Sostmans did the Urostar Shuffle before finding their seats. But now we're on a high speed train racing to Bologna, Podova, Maestre & Venice Santa Lucia.

Farewell Firenze

Jim & Laurrie spent the last full day in Florence living like royalty at the Pitti Palace. We toured the royal apartments of the Grand Dukes of the Medicis. Impressive.

Saw the Carravaggio paintings and all the other art in the galleries before being overrun by thousands of walkers and runners in a citywide charity walk!

Escaped to San Spirito and saw the early crucifix that Michelangelo did when he was only 18.

Off to Venice on the train today. Bye and farewell, Firenze!