This blog was started some months ago, long before we began our actual flight trek southward, to Atlanta, and then northeastward to St. John's, Newfoundland and finally turning eastward to arrive at our final initial destination of Zurich, or Zuerich as the locals put it to paper.

From Zuerich HB we traveled by train, in extreme first class comfort I should say, making stops in Como/Menaggio, Firenze via Milano, and Venice, Italy. Completing the tourist thing Laurrie and I boarded the Zuerich HB bound rail, again via Milano while Becky and Phil hooked up with their local relations. The entire journey was a rich and rewarding travel adventure, spent with some most excellent traveling companions.

One might expect this writer to rail on (pun was intended) about any and everything that went wrong or didn't meet expectations. Not so, reader, for I have found that even in the best of times something will always go a bit amiss. More importantly, over time the good memories will overtake those that are not so good, thus making the not-so-good trivial or even a small humorous episode (not even a chapter) in the journal titled "Swiss-It2010".

But I would like to share some of my endearing impressions of our journey's.

First the train stations. I loved them all. It was like traveling back in time and being a part of a 1930's melodrama. The crowds all in a hurry to get somewhere. The buildings high arches extending up to transoms that allowed the steam to rise and vent - unfortunately steam engines have long since vanished, but one can still allow the mind to wander - the conductors whistle, the slow movement of the goliath pulling away from the station. The romance of travel in another era all in black and white, transcending itself to the here and now.

Zuerich - I liked the city, as it was a great place to people watch. Everyone seemed to have a purpose, a focus of mind, showing something that needed to be accomplished purposely. It was the structure, and structures that intrigued me. The city was not particularity beautiful (I can not define beauty as a city goes, but I know it when I see it - sorry Justice Stewart didn't mean to plagiarize) but it did have an essence about it, something that drew one in and welcomed their visit.

Fribourg - it was as I remembered it, but then it wasn't the place I visited. Confused? Well so was I went first got out of the rail station. So little looked like what my mind had stored away, yet there was familiarity about it. A welcoming feeling of deja vu soon enveloped me as the streets became avenues to the past.

Geneva - I never really got a feel for this city as our stay was intentionally kept to one day. Someday I would like to schedule a revisit. So much to see, so much to do.

Menaggio - just simply magnificent, as the amount of pictures taken would indicate. Words will never do it justice. A lengthened stay should be on our traveling agenda.

Firenze - the Duomo will forever be in my minds eye, as well as the hordes as they descended down on the Boboli Gardens and the Ponte Vecchio. Alas, however, there were those quiet walks away from the maddening crowds where one could gather an appreciation for the city that gave us the statue of David.

Venice - blown away by the Guggenheim Collection and the Doges' palace where the shutter on my camera was smoking. The long walk back, rather than taking the local "tram" system, was well worth the adventure. I wish we could have done back alley exploring, but neither Laurrie nor I was in any kind of shape to do so.

The scenery - from the lake that abuts Zuerich, to the Alps, both Swiss and Italian, to the vineyards around Geneva, to the low lands around Firenze and Venice there was so much beauty to take in. One regret is that I didn't and couldn't take pictures while traveling by train. There are, however, images burned within my memories, of tiny towns and farms, that I will forever be able to call up and remember. A camera would never have done them justice anyway.

So there ends my ramblings. BFS Vacations did it again. They brought down the house with one terrific journey!

Pictures Pictures

Jim took over 600 photos of outdoor scenes, buildings and sights.  The gorgeous interiors of cathedrals and the beautiful displays in museums were off limits to any cameras, though, and those were incredible

Here are his outside photos, slightly edited down to about 200 shots!  Click on this link to see the album:
Switzerland and Italy in 2010

And for some reason he compiled a collection of doors.  Just doors.  Interesting and attention getting old European doors.  Click here to see them:
The Doors of Europe

Enjoy!

Impressions

Now that we are back, I've put together some random impressions about the trip.  Phil says we can't call it a vacation, since we are retired and not taking a vacation from anything.  So we'll refer to our wondrous European odyssey as a "trip".

Random impressions: Switzerland


The Chagall windows in the Fraumuenster cathedral: contemplative, deep.  Coolest stained glass I've ever seen.  The view from the Grossmuenster, the larger cathedral that Charlemaine built, was more impressive (we climbed the tower to see a birdseye view of all of the old city), but the smaller former women's convent, the Fraumuenster, was lovelier.


Other random thoughts:

Uetliberg was a scene out of an Audrey Hepburn movie: wine, brats and rosti potatoes on an open air terrace looking out at the shimmering luminescence of the near Alps.  Classy, serene, alpine.  And we got there by trusty tram, followed by an easy hike up hill.

Fondue: who knew it could be so good?  The scrapings at the bottom, where the cheese burned, were scrumptious.  Chris was wonderful to treat us, and later in the week we had another traditional Swiss meal at Chris and Antje's house.  Nice!


Geneva: big and imposing with blocky important looking stone buildings.  Even to the casual tourist it looked officious.  The lake was beautiful, the fountain impressive, the ride in on the train was beautiful as we passed vineyards on precipitous hillsides spilling down to the lake's edge. 

French speaking.  We got confused coming out of the train station, trying to find the old city.  Tres embrouillant. But it was a gorgeous day and wine by the lake at the end of our tour was good in any language.

Fribourg: ancient and steep.  An old city hidden below river banks and cliffs, a newer city atop the cliffs, connected by a funicular, all of it very old. 

It was a Saturday and a festival and farmer's market was in full happy swing.  Food stalls everywhere, selling the kinds of goods Julia Child fell head over heels for.  French everywhere.  Tres heureux.

Random impressions: Menaggio

Our room had a balcony overlooking the little square below and the lake's edge.  Alps in the distance, the village of Bellagio across the lake.  All from our window where the gauze curtains billowed in the lake breeze.  How could you not fall in love with such a place? 

I would ride an hour on a rattly bus that was way too big for the narrow streets and threatened calamity at every turn to get to a place like this.  Oh, wait, I did.

Random impressions: Italy

Florence: The Duomo.  We wandered among tall buildings, turned a corner, and there it was waiting for us.  An awesome first impression.

Michelangelo's David.  You must see it. 

The crowds.  Oy.

The Boboli gardens at the Pitti Palace.  We wandered them on a cool morning, up and up and up until we saw the dome below us in the near distance.  Jim saying "but where are the flower gardens?" 

We are both conditioned to expect English mixed borders at public gardens.  The Villa Carlotta at Lake Como and the gardens at the Palace in Florence showed us that gardens in medieval Europe were green spaces, shrub mazes, walled gardens and structured walks, but no flowers, except on the occasional rosebush or in the medicinal herb gardens.

Venice: there are no roads, only canals.  Even the FedEx delivery vehicle is a boat. (enlarge the photo... it says FedEx on the gunwale, which is Italian for FedEx).

The Peggy Guggenheim museum -- what a treasure.  Famous works of art, Picassos, Max Ernsts, Chagalls, Calder sculptures, all crammed in the tiny rooms of her villa where she lived in the 1950s and 60s right on the edge of the Grand Canal.  She's buried in her small garden there which was a little creepy.

The Ospedale. 
My good friends with me the whole way, navigating the vaporetto to the hospital stop, wandering the corridors with me murmuring "anyone?  help?  hello?  which way to the visita ocula?" 
 (if you enlarge the photo you will see the most welcome vaporetto sign of all: "Ospedale".  The right place, and the most welcome sight in Venice my first night.)

The view of red rooftops from the top of the campanile at St. Mark's --- seeing all of Venice below, tiny, watery, compact, alive with water traffic, afloat in its lagoon, sinking a little bit each year. Already, in late September, the winter acqua alta (high tide floodwaters) had invaded the square when we descended from the belltower.  Big pools of standing water were in parts of the square around the foot of the Doge's Palace.  What will happen to Venice in 20 or 30 years? 

There was so much more ... the art, the awe inspiring church interiors, the Alpine villages, the palace rooms, the gilt and gold and grandiosity, the convents and cultural upheaval.  Becky's big warm extended family, and her friend Georgene from the US.

The history, the museums, the gelato and spritzes and Chianti.  The sculptures (medieval Italians never saw an empty spot that couldn't be enhanced with a statue). The boat rides and vaporettos and efficient Swiss trams and gondolas and trains.  The tiramisu, and Schwartzwaldentorte on the boat on the Zurichsee.

It was a great trip.

But why is the rum gone?

It's Over, But More to Come

The Sostmani's are home, the Francisco party is getting ready to leave Summago, but don't abandon the blog, loyal readers!  There is more posting to come.  Now that Jim & Laurrie are back in Bloomfield we are going to sort pictures, post some (you don't want to see all 566), and tell you about our experiences. 

Becky put some great posts up from Florence and Venice, but Laurrie abandoned the effort when the wi fi was not free, and the right eye closed semi permanently (not really, it's healing after a trip to the oupatient clinic at the Ospedale and drugs from the Farmacia in Venice).

So there is more to come!

For now, the Sostmans are home.  We left the Australians in Venice, traveled over the Alps, flew thousands of miles and slept in our own beds last night.  Today I go to another train station.... this time the one in Hartford to pick up Tom for a day visit home while he's in NYC this weekend.  (sigh, just got a text from Tom, Amtrak is delayed over an hour getting to Hartford.... this is just not like the European trains at all.  Not at all.)

Arrivederci Venice

It's blue skies as we part ways with laurrie & jim, affectionately known as the Sostmani's. They are off to Zurich while we head to Summago.

Both Sick Sostmani's are recovering but oh so ready for home & bed. Laurrie's still trying to imagine how I could ever think of living here. Not that it will ever happen but I've always felt drawn to Venice.

Yesterday they explored St Mark's square, visited the Rialto Bridge area & then took in the modern art at the Peggy Guggenheim museum. We met up with them about 5:00 and ambled through the Ghetto area, near our Dump.

I should pause briefly and explain ambling - I consider it an interesting slow walk with no particular destination in mind. Philip considers "ambling" a cross country hike into the wilderness without a map, food or water. Still somehow we've "ambled" thru many countries & foreign cities together - always ready to see the next one.

We ate at a restaurant near a canal where the vaparetto's, taxi's, deliveries past by continuously; people strolled by with children, travelers arriving & departing crossing the bridge, church bells ringing at odd times - a typical Veneto scene.

And in our typical fashion - not necessarily american, perhaps Sosfre fashion - we asked for separate checks, then proceeded to order almost identical meals & splitting a bottle of white wine among the 3 of us but not with the 4th, who was drinking red wine. In the end, we told our puzzled waiter to give us one bill.

It's been fun, lots of laughs, creating memories together. Laurrie & Jim got a glimpse of what I've explored for 20+ years - philip for 10 and why we keep coming back...the wonderful public transportation, the ever changing scenery, and most of all the people - who take pride in their country & want visitors to have a good time.

Ciao!
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Venice Sparkles

It is a beautiful day; the sun is sparkling. Philip has the day planned – more walking, but at a leisurely pace and no getting lost. We'll go get our train tickets to Portuguaro & let Mikki know which train to meet. Then we're heading to Murano for some shopping, coffees and good food. Returning, we'll stop to get train reservations from Portuguaro to Zurich; return to the room, rest and then decide what to do with the rest of the late afternoon/evening. Sounds like a plan to me.

Meeting Laurrie & jim for breakfast, such as it is, they're heading to St Marks.

Murano is lovely & uncrowded, pefect. We make a couple of stops for coffee & spritzs before settling on lunch at a place where I remembered locals frequented. I had cod and polenta – which may not sound so good – but it was.

I'm looking forward to the time when Laurrie and Jim have full access to this blog as they are the writers & wordsmiths of this group. Not me. After all the months of planning our journey is at an end. Tomorrow, they head back to Zurich & home. We go to Summago/Portuguaro to visit my cousin for a few days before returning to Zurich and home.

Venice, Here We Are

After having our coffee & roll; Jim's still Down For the Count; Phil, Laurrie and I head to St Marks. We have a few lingering clouds from yesterday's storm but the day looks like it will be lovely. The predictable crowds of tourist are soon encountered but hey, we're part of that group. After a quick look around we head into the Doge's Palace - my 5^th visit and still I find it interesting. It's remarkable a city could develop the government Venice did without a charter to follow.

Wherever we walk we notice platforms staging piled in the middle of walks and squares. Philip said it's for Aqua Alta – high water. And we could understand as the standing water at St Mark's increased significantly from the time we arrived and left the Doge's Palace. High tide would be at 2:00PM and it was obvious, we'd need to walk on the platforms to avoid getting wet.

Our next stop was the campanile – magnificent views of Venice and the out islands. Strangely enough, not one of the hundreds of canals were visible. They're hidden between the canyons of buildings.

My friend, Georgene from Phoenix, is also visiting Venice. Laurrie and I meet her at 2:00 to take a taxi to Murano and a tour of the glass factory. Philip headed back to the train station to meet Mikki, Morgan and Kilian.

Riding in the Taxi was fun but the tour – not so much. Not much history and most everything overpriced. Laurrie headed back to the mainland to check on Jim while George and I settled down with a nice glass of red wine and waited for Philip and Mikki. Once everyone was gathered we strolled along the canal, gawking at the glass shops before stopping to have a pizza before heading back to the rail station to bid farewell to Mikki and family (Phil & I will see them again in a few days).

Near our hotel, we stop for a glass of wine and run into Laurrie and Jim – who's looking better and is at least up right. I have to say the Sostman's are terrific people to travel with – no matter how bad they felt & nothing worse than being sick when on vacation & a foreign country definitely complicates life – they soldier on; no complaints.

After giving Georgene a quick peek in the Ghetto area (home to large % of the remaining Venetians) we headed for the Rialto and some supper. Then we began the adventure of getting George back to our hotel and us back to the Valporetti, without getting lost. We got Georgene back to the hotel but not without getting lost – both going and coming back. Barely speaking, we staggered back to our dismal little hotel about 10:30, vowing not to leave again – ever!!!

Meandering Thoughts

Italian Style

There does appear to be an art of dressing Italian. During our 4 days in Firenze; I've paid close attention to the women around me. I keep trying to distinguish our differences. I have noticed lots of black and form-fitting styles…and heels. I don't think the women here could survive without their stilettos and I can't figure out how they walk across the cobblestones wearing them. Laurrie's in some sort of chic loafers and I'm wearing my Privo's & Born's – but stilettos, they're not! I see lots of scarves tied in all sorts of imaginative ways but after walking miles, I'm hot and sweaty and the scarf is usually weighing me down and I'm looking bedraggled. Italian women don't seem to look bedraggled. So , I have to say I'm baffled.

Granted if blending in with the locals instead of sticking out as a tourist is the goal, perhaps the map and guide book in hand; along with my camera is giving away my true identity.

Italian Drivers

The words "Italian Driving" conjures up images of chaotic narrow streets where caffeine-fueled locals negotiate the smallest of spaces at high speeds, flanked by armies of zig-zagging mopeds, and all serenaded by the hectic sounds of horns and cursing.

Hello Venice, Where’s the Hospital?

Our train arrived on time, we joined the crowds outside the station – just as it started raining. And not your basic gentle rain. Noooo, we're greeted with resounding claps of thunder & great flashes of lightening. Just what you want to see as you walk along a city full of canals of water!

Hotel Rossi – best description is a Dump. But a clean one – at least we have lights, private toilet and only a short walk from the train station. Plus an incredible collection of doors & keys between us and our rooms. Breakfast is coffee and a hard roll, served by a surly lady (she did smile today!) Hey it's a one *; you get what you pay for.

Jim's cold is worsening and he's going down for the count…sleep. Laurrie's eye infection isn't better and the druggist said she needed to see a doctor. He indicated all she had to do was cross the bridge and turn to the left. After an adamant "don't even think you're going to a hospital by yourself!", we set off. We learned that "turn to the left" meant – turn to the left; get on the vaporetti; make 6 or 7 stops; get off at Ospedale stop; wander thru a maze with signs that say First Aide and finally find the Emergency Room.

Once we finally arrive, I have to admit; the system seems efficient – after Laurrie gave her name, rank, passport number & zip code; we were on our way to the eye clinic – where not one but 2 doctors examine her – about 20 minutes later, prescriptions in hand, we were on our way back to the hotel. The staff at the hospital were friendly and helpful –we got lost more than once and each time someone willingly helped us.

By the time we get settled; it's about 7:00PM. Philip and I cross the bridge to the Ghetto area and find a wonderful deli where we bought fresh Mortedella, cheese, candies, chips & procescco – which we carried back to the room and had a picnic.

Leaving Firenze

Goodbye to clickity clack luggage rolling by the windows, mopeds skidding around the corners & car drivers who only nominally stop for a pedestrian.

Hotel Varasi was close to the train station & not horrendously expensive. It was clean, the staff cheerful. I have no complaints. What was amusing was our first night – a sweltering 1^st evening. We opened the window and a 1,000 angry Firenze mosquitoes flew into our room. We spent the night swatting & sleeping with the sheet over our head. It was only the 2^nd day – when Philip noticed the halls were air conditioned that I decided to closely examine the heater in our room. Aha, it too was an air conditioner! We immediately shared the information with Laurrie & Jim; ending the Battling Mosquitos.

So much to do and see – 4 days isn't enough & it's not worth becoming exhausted trying to See It All. Pick a few things that interest you and then enjoy the sights, smells and food. The food is good and reasonable and the wine is excellent. Like any other place, you get what you pay for. Philip declared that Laurrie is ready for the Chianti Wine Tasting Hall of Fame.

Dr. Manatowa began dispensing drugs - Sudafed & Musinex to Jim; Musinex to Phil. Unfortunately, I have nothing for Laurrie; who's got Pink Eye and not having much luck finding relief.

The train station was mobbed when we arrived and typically Italian, Let's Not Give The Passengers A Clue Which Track To Run To; Until The Very Last Minute. Then Philip and I forgot to tell Laurrie & Jim to ignore the numbers printed on the car – look at the doors instead; so the Sostmans did the Urostar Shuffle before finding their seats. But now we're on a high speed train racing to Bologna, Podova, Maestre & Venice Santa Lucia.

Farewell Firenze

Jim & Laurrie spent the last full day in Florence living like royalty at the Pitti Palace. We toured the royal apartments of the Grand Dukes of the Medicis. Impressive.

Saw the Carravaggio paintings and all the other art in the galleries before being overrun by thousands of walkers and runners in a citywide charity walk!

Escaped to San Spirito and saw the early crucifix that Michelangelo did when he was only 18.

Off to Venice on the train today. Bye and farewell, Firenze!

Finally! They're Happy

19 years ago; I came to Florence with my mother & aunt. Their goal, besides showing me some of the world's great art, was for me to buy a fabulous leather purse. Instead I went home with a chintzy flea market cloth backpack. In my defense, it DID have leather straps.

Until their final days with us, I was reminded of my extreme lapse of judgment.

Today, my lapse was corrected. With Philip's help, they made sure I found myself at the Scuola del Cuoio. Having made our way to San Croce, we were told 3 hours before we could get in. We decided to leave & head for Fiesole. As we were leaving, Philip spotted a gate & we walked thru - there was the school! We went in, no one seemed to mind. I now own a one-of-a-kind leather purse designed by Francesca Gori. Thank you to Mom, Aunt Marilyn & Philip.

Fiesole

After our walk to San Croce – which took most of the morning (Laurrie and Jim headed back to the Pitti to find out how the rich Florentines lived) we headed back to the hotel; in a vain attempt to avoid the 20,000+ runners in town for a 5 & 10K runs (Laurrie & Jim got caught in the tide of purple). Eventually, we made our way to the hotel; took a break and then decided to try the bus system and go to Fiesole.

A ticket cost €2 each for 90 minutes; so the whole trip cost us €4. We learned tickets are purchased at a Tobacchaci. Fiesole sit on top of the hills east of Firenze. The bus ride was lovely and the views from the top were spectacular. We had a decent wine and a couple of bad desserts.

Still, if I can persuade Elizabeth to come to Florence – and Summaga & Zurich – think I might try and book us into Fiesole. It's quiet and an easy bus ride to the city.

Evening – we meet downstairs. The hotel has a couple of sitting areas that are comfortable and a good alternative to staying in small rooms with no comfortable chairs. We pick a tratorria which was our 2^nd choice the 1^st night; breezed by the fish display, were seated and then realized the menu was only fish. Not a good choice for Jim and Philip. We immediately departed (the waiters are still probably wondering what happened!) and headed back to place we ate the 1^st night. We didn't want to walk anymore and no more surprises, pleasant or otherwise. The food and wine were good and Philip was introduced to Tiramasu – which he thought was heaven-sent!

So now we get ready for Venice!

Sunday Morning Walk to San Croce

David, the Real Thing

It was incredible. The pictures eveyone has seen of this famous statue by Michelangelo do not prepare you for the size, luminosity, grace and sheer physical presence of it. The anger in David's face combined with the relaxed pose make it an amazing study. David, about to go into battle against Goliath, sure and poised, angry and ready.

I'd post a picture, but it would be so pathetic compared to the real thing.

The Boboli Gardens and Pitti Palace were a wonder, and we climbed to the top and went through the porcelain museum. Views of the hills covered in olive groves were so serene and there were great views of central Florence too, with the iconic dome over everything.

Great day for us, but a lot of walking. Great day for Phil and Becky and Nancy too, see Becky's post from earlier today. Ciao for now.
(PS: the picture of the David statue in Becky's post is a copy, NOT THE REAL THING!!! Just so you know. The Real Thing is awesome)

We Go Our Own Way

It rained hard during the night, the air is clear & the streets are temporarily clear. Jim and Laurrie have tickets to see David (of David and Goliath) at 2:30 & my cousin Nancy is arriving at 9:00. So the Sostmans took off for the Pitti Palace and we headed to Oltrarno, my personal favorite area of Florence - away from the crowds and into the quiet of the neighborhoods. My 1st trip to Florence, Nancy introduced me to Santo Spirito. It's unadorned exterior and elaborate interior has always been my personal favorite. Since the last time I visited the church Michelangelo's wooden crucifix, sculpted when he was 18, was returned to the church.

Passing by the Piazza della Repubblica, we stopped for coffee at the Piazza della Signoria. This is the home of Florentine politics. Then we headed across the Ponte Vecchio to Santo Spirito.

For lunch we headed to 4 Lione for lunch, then back to Bar Vivoli Gelateria, which claims to have the best ice cream in the world. Not sure about the world but it's the best I've tasted.

Then it was back to the hotel. As we passed our friendly corner bar; who should we run into but Laurrie and Jim; enjoying the day and a glass of red wine. They just returned from viewing David - where they didn't have to queue and could linger as long as they liked.

My pathetic attempts to take pictures are all we have at the moment. Jim takes wonderful pictures and hopefully will add them to the blog once he's stateside.

Postcard from Italy

Hello from Florence. We are limited on the fancy schmancy new iPad when we try to post, so Becky has been handling pictures and most updates. But Jim has tons of photos, even shots of Laurrie swimming (up to the ankles) in Lake Como. And the most gorgeous shots of misty, mountainy Menaggio. Such a lovely town.

In the short space where we can post our travel thoughts, i'll put a few observations:

Bus ride from Menaggio to Como - molto scary!
Train to Milan - late (we're in Italy) but we made the Firenze connection. Enjoyable ride.
Duomo cathedral in Florence - jaw droppingly spectacular.
Art in Florence - it's everywhere, you breathe it.
The Medicis - what a family! The wealth! The education! The power & pomp!
Ponte Vecchio - touristy, but look past the mobs and you see the ancient stalls and cubbyholes lining the old bridge selling gold and silver just as it was in the 1400s.
Food - mmm, especially at Paolo's in Menaggio and in a little garden patio down the street from our hotel here in Firenze. Okay that's it for now. Ciao. Tomorrow Michelangelo.

Great Days in Florence

The city offers something for almost everyone, from viewing some of the world's greatest Renaissance art to wandering around boutiques & markets, wine tasting and wonderful food.

We had a sunny day and headed to the Duomo, where it could be admired in the morning sun. The Duomo is the heart of Florence with Brunelleschi's dome being the highest point in the city. It's hard to prepare a 1st time visitor for the brilliant colors and immensity of the Duomo. After a coffee stop we headed to San Lorenzo, the ancestoral home of Cosimo il Vecchio, founder of the great Medici dynasty. San Lorenzo was the Medici family church and was primarily redesigned by Brunelleschi & Michelangelo. It remains a parish church and mass was in session while we were there.

After yet another coffee stop (I can barely go a block without wanting a coffee - the best, to me, are in Italy) we were off to the convent of San Marco, dominated by an ancient cedar tree. The convent has a remarkable series of Fra Angelico frescoes as well as the 1st public library in Europe. The library is gone but there is an interesting display of print making.

By now hunger is uppermost in importance. So we made our way to Mercato Centrale - hoping to find some real Tuscan food. We did - but probably at rip off prices. Later that evening, we learned the better food was on either side of where we ate.

After some shopping at the market, Philip and I headed back to the hotel to rest & we assumed the Sostman's would soon follow - Not! They hadn't had enough walking - they ended up at the Ponte Vecchio the oldest bridge in Florence & probably the most expensive. Gone are the butchers & tanners & in are the gold smiths.

About 7:00 we met for supper and began our search for the Trattoria Za Za. Fantastico! Not so good with bringing us our bill but the food was oh so good.

As we were dining, the rain started, just a shower but the 1st indication a cool front was moving thru.

Florence, City of the Lily

Ah, Firenze, the city that gave birth to the Renaissance and changed the way we view the world. Amazingly enough, the Scary Bus was on time, both Italian trains were on time & we found our hotel - all without a hint of a meltdown; major or otherwise.

As promised Hotel Varasi is a short walk from the train station - would be simple to reach if not for the scooters zooming from almost every direction. Between the scooters and the people; it takes a bit of getting used to.

Our hotel is comfortable - the bathrooms are cozy; practically standing in the bidet to take a shower. On our 1st walk - we stumbled onto the Duomo, in the lovely late afternoon light. It's breath-taking.

Later we walked a few blocks from the hotel and had a wonderful supper.

Today we had a so-so breakfast before heading out to the Duomo, San Lorenzo, San Marco and then stopped for lunch. Philip and I headed back to the hotel. Laurrie & Jim were off to Ponte Vecchio.

More later

Bella Lake Como

There's no place quite like Lake Como - the lake, the villages, the alps - it's all so sublime. And the food - well at least, at the Restaurant Paolo - is heavenly! Both nights we dined on the plaza, with the almost full moon rising over the alpine peaks as a backdrop and the sparkling water.

Our only full day was spent riding the ferries. First we stopped at the Villa Carlotta, re known for it's hillside/lakeside gardens. When I 1st saw them in 1991; I remember thinking "I can do this!" Not!!! But it's fun to try.

Our next stop was Bellagio - famous for it's many, many steep steps and extremely expensive products. We had a so-so lunch overlooking the lake. Then it was back on the auto ferry to Mennagio.

The Hotel Garni Cornado is located in Mennagio. We had rooms overlooking the lake - a little noisy at night but worth the spectacular view. Their breakfasts were among the best - any kind of coffee you wished, variety of breads, yogurts, fresh juices, meat & cheese.

Then we began packing for our next journey - to Florence.

We're Off to Lake Como

Left our hotel about 8:00 and headed to the train station.

To back up a minute - about the Hotel Continental - Our Zurich hotel was in an almost perfect location, about a 15 min walk from the train station or a short 5 min ride & walk from the tram station. The people at the hotel were friendly - there was usually a large vat of fresh apple juice (seasonal) for refreshment and then into tiny, tiny elevators for our trip up to the room. Good thing the 4 of us are so comfortable together as the trip in the elevator gave us a whole new meaning to "tight fit". The room electricity was operated by your key card - very efficient. The rooms were compact - if Philip or Jim were seated in one of the chairs, Laurrie and I had to crawl over the bed to get to the closet or bathroom (hmmm, we each had our own room). Each night, our beds were turned down, chocolate left as well as slippers.

So ... now back to the trip to Como. We're on a 9:?? train to Como, so we have plenty of time to purchase a coffee and pastry. As usual, I've lost my glasses (readers) and am searching for a druggeri to buy a new pair. This time they came with a chain so hopefully I won't loose them.

Our lovely weather continues as our speeding train carries us thru the alps where we marvel at the small towns & farm perched precariously high on the mountains. You have to wonder Why?

There is minimal fuss at border control; a few men get on with dogs - assume checking for drugs. No one seems particularly interested in us.

We arrive at the Como station where it remains true to course; no one speaks englesia - lots of smiles and hand gesturing. This time my internet research proves faultless - the C10 bus arrives to take us to Mennagio. There's a mad dash to get to the bus - where moments ago there was no one; suddenly there's a mob of people. Where did they come from?

Now we're on the scary bus, Yeowsa! We're s till trying to get down the aisle with our big suitcases (didn't seem so big stateside) when the bus takes off. We attempt to place suitcases in the holding area but they are rolling around like bowling balls. Then someone comes and put a walker on top of the cases, meanwhile we're trying to get into seats without falling into some one's lap.

The Scary Bus careens thru the town of Como, then follows what has to be a roman chariot road along the lake. Two buses can't pass (they use the time for a smoke break) and passing a large motor home was a breath-holding moment. Fortunately the bus is big and cars give way or back up. The views of the lake, the villages and the alps are spectacular.

After an hour on the Scary Bus, we arrive at Mennagio. There in the plaza, calm reigns. We head for a cafe and have a spritz, considering ourselves grateful to be alive. Then over to the Hotel Garni.

Bella Mennagio!

Goodbye to Zurich

We had another wonderful meal at Antje and Chris's last night. All the way out to the suburbs on the 7 tram, a short car ride and we were in their lovely new home up in the hills over the lake. Antje made us a traditional Swiss meal of boiled potatoes, lots and lots of cheeses, and a bottled drink that is very young wine before it matures ... bubbly and sweet like soda pop. Chestnut paste squiggled over meringues for dessert.

Jim and I can't thank Antje and Chris enough for their hospitality, for the delightful authentic Swiss meals, for the car taxi services and for welcoming us so thoroughly into their home... And all of this only days after they moved in to their new house!

Now we are off to Italy, to Lake Como. It should be a spectacular ride through the Alps.

See you in Menaggio!

Views from Uetliberg

The Sostmans were up and about before the French's. When I announced there would be no alarm this morning - I was serious. It was after 8:00 before I gave serious consideration to having coffee or opening my eyes (not to be considered - one without the other!)

After a heavenly cup of foamy cappuccino we made our daily trek to the Bahnhof where train reservations were made for the rest of our adventure. Hard to believe this is our last day in Zurich. Time flies. I try to concentrate on what is immediately around me, knowing I'll want to store it all in my memories. Regardless of how tired I am, I'm almost afraid to close my eyes - I might miss something.

Jim decided to loiter in the downtown area while Phil, Laurrie and I headed for the S? to take the train to the Uetliberg - a mountain overlooking Zurich. The day was clear enough, we could see the alps. (I forgot to mention, on the train returning from Geneva, the clouds lifted briefly & we had an outstanding view of Mont Blanc)

From the end station, it's a bit of an uphill climb to reach the top - forget those young women pushing buggies - I'm insisting it was a air-gasping climb. The views are well worth it and require a beer stop to appropriately appreciate the views.